Carpentry And Woodworking
A lot of persons have been asking for this so today is part one of covering the absolute basics in both woodworking and carpentry terminology not only will today cover the terms but I’ll also intertwine some tools as well because it plays such a huge part in understanding the terminology
now I will break down the woodworking and carpentry lesson into four major sections:
lumber, plywood, measuring and marking which is a combined section and hand tools now I’ve laid this out in this way to make it easier for you to navigate around especially in the future when you need a quick refresher. One of the most important groups of terms to learn right out of the gate is to learn about the material in which you'll be using to build all your stuff, so for this purpose both lumber or wood will refer to construction material that is used to build houses and material that is used to build furniture so with that let's dive into learning about some of the basic terms used for lumber or wood.
In its raw form wood can be broken up into two categories hardwoods, and soft woods hardwoods they come from deciduous trees that is trees that drop their leaves like oak cherry or maple so the poplar is considered a hardwood but by no means is this actually hard like maple so why is it a hardwood, simply because it came from a tree that drops its leaves. Another important thing to know about hardwoods is that they grow slower and the wood fibers are more dense making the wood much stronger soft.
Softwoods on the other hand come from conifer trees like pine fur, cedar and of course they have needles and not leaves softwood trees grow faster and produce wood that is less dense and in general weaker than hardwood rough cut lumbers are lumbers that are well rough and in most cases you can still see the saw marks from the mill. Rough lumber is sold by the quarter inch in its thickness and its width can vary just depending on what's available.
In your area for example a four quarter board measures around one inch thick, a six quarter inch, and a half an eight quarter two inches and twelve quarter three inches lumber like this can be used for rustic projects or it could be sized down by using a jointer and a planer for furniture.
Moving on the term face is used to describe the large flat part of the board while the edge is used to describe the smaller edge of the board end grain refers to the end of the board where the end of the grain is most visible grain or grain pattern is a visual look that the grain makes as it runs through the board it's what makes wood so beautiful once the lumber does get sized down it's called dressed lumber that is lumber that has been sized and shaped and smoothed to a nice flat surface for example s4s which stands for surfaced on four sides is lumber that is found at most big box stores it's dimensioned and finished on four sides ready to use there's also s2s lumber which is surfaced on two sides both faces are planed but as you can see the edges are still raw and rough.
Dimensional lumber is lumber that is sized to a standard final dimension like framing lumber like a two by four two by six or two by eight and it also refers to a one by four or one by six and so on but don't be tricked with these numbers because dimensional lumber is sold using its rough size not its actual size so for example when you buy a two by four at the store it doesn't measure two inches by four inches but measures an inch and a half by three and a half inches and a one by four doesn't measure one inch by four inch but measures three quarters of an inch by three and a half inches most often the lumber that we've been discussing has been kiln dried meaning that it's been put inside of a kiln a kiln is basically a big oven to reduce the moisture content of the lumber wood that is wet will eventually dry out and shrink on its own but by using a kiln that does it in a more controlled environment that's slower producing a much better product at the end however in the woodworking and carpentry world there is a product called pt lumber or pressure treated lumber which is really wet, this lumber is treated with chemicals that resist rot and insects which makes it a great choice for outdoor projects no matter what wood you buy, there are six common defects to look out for, number one is a cup a cup is when the board or the lumber is curved up in this direction on the face of the wood, number two is a twist. A twist is when the board twists this way and one end in the opposite direction in the other number three is a crook. A crook is when the board or lumber bends to the right or to the left in the direction of the edge of the material. Number four is a bow a bow is similar to a crook but this time the board bends in the direction of the face. Five is a check. A check is when the board or lumber has a crack but the crack doesn't go all the way through the thickness of the material and number six similar to a check. The split is when the crack goes all the way through the material.
Plywood is a man-made wood product that is made from multiple layers or plies of thin wood veneer, these veneers are then glued together at 90 degree angles to each other to produce a flat large stable sheet of material. Plywood is often graded by its surface and how many plies it has. For example the fewer the plies the weaker the plywood, or the less stable it is the more
plies it has, the more stable it is the stronger it is for example a half inch construction grade plywood has four plies sold in four by eight sheets and has a pretty rough surface even after it's been sanded. The next type to look at is finished plywood finished plywood has one or two
outside thin veneers oftentimes hardwood that produces a really good smooth surface for example this sheet of finished plywood came from home depot and it has two thin outer veneers of birch and five interior plies for a total of seven plies.
The last type of plywood to look at is baltic birch and here in the u.s baltic birch might be the highest level or quality of plywood that you can buy.
The term square in carpentry and woodworking refers to checking the squareness of the faces edges or the ends of boards, it also refers to checking if something you're building has equal diagonal measurements which verifies that it is indeed square, the term square is also used to label a group of tools that are specifically designed to mark and check for squareness.
Let's look at four of them the first is a precision square, these squares are made out of metal with little to no moving parts that's what makes them so precise the second is the speed square, this tool is used mainly in carpentry but it also can be used in woodworking as well third, is the combination square this tool is great at so many things around the shop and it provides very accurate angles and it can be used to set and measure depth as well, lastly is the framing square, the framing square is used for framing houses and it's also really good at checking cabinets for square before nailing.
The next term or tool to look at is a sliding bevel sliding bevels are great for laying out different angles, or for transferring those angles from one to another a straight edge refers to any straight material used to mark, measure, or cut straight lines.
When you're working with rough lumber these white charcoal pencils work fantastic. The last term I want to cover in this section is the term layout. Layout simply means to measure, mark, and arrange all the needed components to complete a project, this term can also be used as a verb so for example someone might say I’m going to go and lay out that window.
Let's start this section off by talking about handsaws. Hand saws are a general term and can be used to describe many different types of saws the first type is what I’ll call a traditional saw these are the classic looking handsaws that most people can easily recognize nowadays these saws come in all different shapes and sizes and most of them though still cut on the push stroke meaning that they cut mostly in the forward direction next are pool saws also known as Japanese saws they are absolutely fantastic saws, great for control flexibility and require less effort because they cut on the pull stroke. The last saw to look at is the back saw, the back saw again is a general term it's used to describe any saw that has a stiffened rib along the back of the saw this rib greatly reduces any flexing that the blade may encounter while in use because the less flex the straighter the cut. Let's shift gears real quick and talk about two terms as it pertains to cutting wood. the first term is kerf the curve of the blade is how wide the blade is and ultimately how wide of a cut it leaves behind in the wood the second term is off cut. The offcut is any piece of material that you don't want or the waste after the cut is finished, the offcut isn't necessarily always waste. though it may simply mean the piece that you're not intending to use after the cut is complete.
All right let's finish this off by talking about a few terms and tools used for shaping wood. First up is the wood chisel there are many different sizes and shapes available and they're all great tools for shaping wood next is the hand plane hand planes again is a general term so for example
I have a block plane here that is used to shape edges of stock and to remove material where needed.
The other plane I have is a jack plane and as you can see it's much larger than the previous one and this one's great for general purpose planning and for shaping and flattening one term that's used often around things that need sharpen like chisels and planes is the word hone.
Hone simply means to sharpen something. The last tip we're going to look at today is this. The wood rasp, wood rasps like all tools come in many different sizes and shapes but they're all great for quickly roughing out and shaping edges and the faces of stock.
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